My first attempt at making Idli was not a total disaster, but I'm glad there was no one there watching. I soaked my urad dal over night. But, I didn't read the directions properly and didn't let the beans ferment.
This is the recipe.
Take a cup of white urad dal
Soak it over night
Blend it into a creamy paste
Combine it with twice as much rice ceral
Now, let that ferment overnight
Add some baking powder and steam in an idli tray
I wanted the idli for dinner that night, so I skipped the fermenting process. As a result, the idli came out with a mouth feel very similar to corn bread. Kind of gritty, but thick and satisfying. Idlis are supposed to be light. This wasn't.
One nice thing I learned, though, is that the idli steamer isn't necessary. I simply put a thin pie plate over some boiling water. I used inverted custard cups to hold the plate above the water, but some crumpled aluminum foil would work, too. They didn't come out looking as perfectly round as they should have, but they have a satisfying rustic look to them.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
On Hot Peppers
I wrote a bit on controlling heat, but I never covered the topic of hot peppers in depth. I disagree with many asian cooks on what peppers to use. As far as I'm concerned, here are the variables I look for, in order of importance:
Flavor is next, higher than heat. Many people don't think of peppers as having flavor, but they do. Try this: take a jalapeño pepper and remove the spines (see my post on controlling the heat), then eat a little. Can you taste it? Now, try that with bird peppers. WAIT!! Don't try it with bird peppers! You can't remove enough heat from them to taste the pepper. That's my point here. Some peppers are easier to taste. Peppers taste good, but when you use those super-hot pepper you can't taste them. So, a medium pepper, with thick, fresh flesh will taste better.
Most people would think the heat would be the primary, maybe only, concern, but I have it listed as the third. I need a pepper that has enough heat, but not too much. The amount of heat affects the flavor and the ability to control the heat.
Consistency and the ability to control the heat are related. Some peppers are thin-skinned without much spine. The heat is absorbed into the flesh. This makes it very difficult to see how much heat it has. On contract, cutting open a jalepeno or a fresno pepper immediately exposes the spines and the amount of heat. You can control this heat easily by removing some or all of the spines. You simply can't do that with bird peppers, serranos, thai chiles or habaneros.
So, what do I choose? I choose Mexican peppers, particularly jalapeños and fresnos. Here's why.
In Colorado, most of our peppers come from New Mexico and Mexico. That means we have great jalepeno, fresno, arbol and other tex-mex peppers. But, Asian peppers like bird and thai chiles are more difficult to find. They're shipped in, so they're picked green and handled. By the time they get here, they're kind of nasty.
Also, fresnos and jalapeños are easy to control. Jalapeños you simply cut them open and cut out the spines. With fresnos, it's even easier. You chop from the tip, up to the base, stopping when you have enough heat. The heat is clustered at the top.
Finally, the taste of fresnos and jalepenos is excellent. You can really taste the pepper. It might be because they're the freshest, but I have to think the relatively thick skin helps. I happen to like the flavor of the fresnos a bit better, because they tend to be more mature and thus sweeter.
So, when cooking Indian food, I don't use Indian peppers. Whenever adding heat, I try to use Fresno Peppers. If there are no Fresnos, I use Jalapeños.
- Available fresh, preferably grown locally
- Flavor
- Heat
- Consistency of heat
- Ability to control heat
Flavor is next, higher than heat. Many people don't think of peppers as having flavor, but they do. Try this: take a jalapeño pepper and remove the spines (see my post on controlling the heat), then eat a little. Can you taste it? Now, try that with bird peppers. WAIT!! Don't try it with bird peppers! You can't remove enough heat from them to taste the pepper. That's my point here. Some peppers are easier to taste. Peppers taste good, but when you use those super-hot pepper you can't taste them. So, a medium pepper, with thick, fresh flesh will taste better.
Most people would think the heat would be the primary, maybe only, concern, but I have it listed as the third. I need a pepper that has enough heat, but not too much. The amount of heat affects the flavor and the ability to control the heat.
Consistency and the ability to control the heat are related. Some peppers are thin-skinned without much spine. The heat is absorbed into the flesh. This makes it very difficult to see how much heat it has. On contract, cutting open a jalepeno or a fresno pepper immediately exposes the spines and the amount of heat. You can control this heat easily by removing some or all of the spines. You simply can't do that with bird peppers, serranos, thai chiles or habaneros.
So, what do I choose? I choose Mexican peppers, particularly jalapeños and fresnos. Here's why.
In Colorado, most of our peppers come from New Mexico and Mexico. That means we have great jalepeno, fresno, arbol and other tex-mex peppers. But, Asian peppers like bird and thai chiles are more difficult to find. They're shipped in, so they're picked green and handled. By the time they get here, they're kind of nasty.
Also, fresnos and jalapeños are easy to control. Jalapeños you simply cut them open and cut out the spines. With fresnos, it's even easier. You chop from the tip, up to the base, stopping when you have enough heat. The heat is clustered at the top.
Finally, the taste of fresnos and jalepenos is excellent. You can really taste the pepper. It might be because they're the freshest, but I have to think the relatively thick skin helps. I happen to like the flavor of the fresnos a bit better, because they tend to be more mature and thus sweeter.
So, when cooking Indian food, I don't use Indian peppers. Whenever adding heat, I try to use Fresno Peppers. If there are no Fresnos, I use Jalapeños.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Urad Dal
My next dal dish to try was Urad Dal. I made this a few days back and I'm only getting to writing about it now. My intent was to try a new form of dal with different spicing. I have to say I was successful, although I don't think it came out quite as well as the Channa Dal.
I started with the same process.
- Wash the dal and cook in a 1-to-5 ratio of dal to water. Simmer until soft.
- Heat a quarter cup of veggie oil
- Add the whole spices (cumin and brown mustard seeds)
- Add the aromatics (onion, peppers and fresh minced ginger)
- Add the ground spices (this time it was Garam Masala from a mix)
I modified this only a little by adding tomato paste to the aromatics. This helped darken the dish, thicken the sauce and adds a great flavor. It's not really Indian, since tomatoes were not known outside the new world until the 1600s. But, Indians have picked up tomatoes, like Italians did.
I also modified it by increase the amount of dal from 1 cup to 1.5 cups. This was a mistake. I didn't properly increase the amount of oil and spices and the dish came out a little bland. Also, I didn't add any additional asafoetida, and you could tell. The dish was harder to disgest, giving me a slow feeling, and it lacked a certain muskiness. Easy errors to correct next time.
My weight is down to 193.4. I know that sounds high, but I was at 196 when I started this just a few days back. And, I don't feel hungry.
This dish was gluten free, casein free and vegan.
I started with the same process.
- Wash the dal and cook in a 1-to-5 ratio of dal to water. Simmer until soft.
- Heat a quarter cup of veggie oil
- Add the whole spices (cumin and brown mustard seeds)
- Add the aromatics (onion, peppers and fresh minced ginger)
- Add the ground spices (this time it was Garam Masala from a mix)
I modified this only a little by adding tomato paste to the aromatics. This helped darken the dish, thicken the sauce and adds a great flavor. It's not really Indian, since tomatoes were not known outside the new world until the 1600s. But, Indians have picked up tomatoes, like Italians did.
I also modified it by increase the amount of dal from 1 cup to 1.5 cups. This was a mistake. I didn't properly increase the amount of oil and spices and the dish came out a little bland. Also, I didn't add any additional asafoetida, and you could tell. The dish was harder to disgest, giving me a slow feeling, and it lacked a certain muskiness. Easy errors to correct next time.
My weight is down to 193.4. I know that sounds high, but I was at 196 when I started this just a few days back. And, I don't feel hungry.
This dish was gluten free, casein free and vegan.
Saturday, January 2, 2010
On controlling heat
One of my problems with cooking Indian food is getting the spiciness correct. There's a number of different issues here.
1) The actual spices. Americans don't differentiate between heat and flavor when talking about spice, but it's important. Getting the right mix of cumin, coriander, turmeric, fennel, etc. is critical. That's why people rely on mixes so often.
2) The amount of heat. I find this particularly tough because of the source of the heat. Peppers are not an easily quantifiable heat source. Different peppers have different amounts of heat, but even among peppers of a single type the amount of heat varies. Preparation has an effect, too. If you cut out the seed pods and the ribs, the hear goes away. So, the cleanliness of the cut is crucial.
To deal with this problem, I try to get the heat close, then adjust by either adding cayenne pepper or yogurt. When making GFCF/Vegan food, it's more difficult to adjust down, so I try to hit it a little mild and adjust upwards.
3) The quality of the heat. Different heat sources taste different. Black pepper is a thin, biting heat. Mustard is a fuller heat, with hot peppers being the fullest. All heat sources also change their qualities when cooked, becoming fuller and more complex.
In general, it's a good idea to cook all your heat sources well. This is what we're doing in the stage where we flavor the oil. Part of that is to impart flavor to the oil, part to make the whole seeds more edible, and a large part is to change the tone of the flavors. This works in all cuisines. For instance, Mexican chili powders and Southern American rubs all taste better after being cooked.
So, to get Indian spicing correct, do this:
1) Use a mix when possible. If not, be prepared to taste the oil (on some rice or white bread) and adjust on the fly.
2) Adjust spiciness by removing some of the seed pods and ribs of the peppers. Be prepared to adjust further when the dish is done
3) Whenever possible, cook your spices, particularly over high heat.
1) The actual spices. Americans don't differentiate between heat and flavor when talking about spice, but it's important. Getting the right mix of cumin, coriander, turmeric, fennel, etc. is critical. That's why people rely on mixes so often.
2) The amount of heat. I find this particularly tough because of the source of the heat. Peppers are not an easily quantifiable heat source. Different peppers have different amounts of heat, but even among peppers of a single type the amount of heat varies. Preparation has an effect, too. If you cut out the seed pods and the ribs, the hear goes away. So, the cleanliness of the cut is crucial.
To deal with this problem, I try to get the heat close, then adjust by either adding cayenne pepper or yogurt. When making GFCF/Vegan food, it's more difficult to adjust down, so I try to hit it a little mild and adjust upwards.
3) The quality of the heat. Different heat sources taste different. Black pepper is a thin, biting heat. Mustard is a fuller heat, with hot peppers being the fullest. All heat sources also change their qualities when cooked, becoming fuller and more complex.
In general, it's a good idea to cook all your heat sources well. This is what we're doing in the stage where we flavor the oil. Part of that is to impart flavor to the oil, part to make the whole seeds more edible, and a large part is to change the tone of the flavors. This works in all cuisines. For instance, Mexican chili powders and Southern American rubs all taste better after being cooked.
So, to get Indian spicing correct, do this:
1) Use a mix when possible. If not, be prepared to taste the oil (on some rice or white bread) and adjust on the fly.
2) Adjust spiciness by removing some of the seed pods and ribs of the peppers. Be prepared to adjust further when the dish is done
3) Whenever possible, cook your spices, particularly over high heat.
Channa Dal
I've made Channa Dal before, but it's been years and I've picked up some cooking skills since then. In the past, my Channa Dal was gloopy and overly smooth, being more like a puree. Since then, my mother-in-law, who is the world's most awesome shopper, got me a stick blender. Actually, I think it was my brother-in-law, under the advice of his mom. After a few years of making soups, I've learned how to do it right.
You're not supposed to puree the dal. The idea is to crush enough of them to create a thick sauce, like I did with the potatoes in the Aloo dish. But, you're supposed to leave a large amount of it whole. It gives the dish texture and appearance, and also the flavors seem to keep more of a sense of self. Also, in the past I was too afraid to add the required amount of oil.
Channa Dal follows the same basic process as Aloo, Gobi, Mattar. You cook the spices in the oil, then the aromatics, then the vegetables. In this case, I had almost no fresh ingredients. I had fresh garlic, but I'd used the onion and peppers for my Aloo dish. So, my spices where:
Preparation:
1 cup Channa Dal (or yellow split peas)
5 cups water
Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook until soft, maybe 1 hour
When ready, crush about half the dal and mix. If it's too loose, cook uncovered. If it's too thick, add water.
Step 1:
Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- I know it sounds like a lot, but given the other ingredients it's healthy
Add whole cumin and black mustard seeds
Add crushed red pepper flakes
Cook until seeds begin to pop
Step 2:
Add:
Ground cumin
Ground black pepper
Ground coriander
Ground ginger (lots of it)
Pinch asafoetida powder
Minced garlic
The oil should be thick with spices now
Step 3
Add spiced oil to the dal and mix
The dal should go from a bright yellow to an attractive brown with the seeds and pepper flakes being obvious and attractive.
Finish with salt and lemon juice
If the seeds are chewy or annoying, you didn't cook them enough in step 1.
The health of this dish is incredible. It's gluten free, casein free and vegan. The dal is chock-full of fiber, both soluble and insoluble, protein and nutrients. The asafoetida and the garlic aid in digestion, since dal can be a bit rough on the tummy. It's filling, satisfying and super-tasty.
Enjoy.
You're not supposed to puree the dal. The idea is to crush enough of them to create a thick sauce, like I did with the potatoes in the Aloo dish. But, you're supposed to leave a large amount of it whole. It gives the dish texture and appearance, and also the flavors seem to keep more of a sense of self. Also, in the past I was too afraid to add the required amount of oil.
Channa Dal follows the same basic process as Aloo, Gobi, Mattar. You cook the spices in the oil, then the aromatics, then the vegetables. In this case, I had almost no fresh ingredients. I had fresh garlic, but I'd used the onion and peppers for my Aloo dish. So, my spices where:
Preparation:
1 cup Channa Dal (or yellow split peas)
5 cups water
Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook until soft, maybe 1 hour
When ready, crush about half the dal and mix. If it's too loose, cook uncovered. If it's too thick, add water.
Step 1:
Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- I know it sounds like a lot, but given the other ingredients it's healthy
Add whole cumin and black mustard seeds
Add crushed red pepper flakes
Cook until seeds begin to pop
Step 2:
Add:
Ground cumin
Ground black pepper
Ground coriander
Ground ginger (lots of it)
Pinch asafoetida powder
Minced garlic
The oil should be thick with spices now
Step 3
Add spiced oil to the dal and mix
The dal should go from a bright yellow to an attractive brown with the seeds and pepper flakes being obvious and attractive.
Finish with salt and lemon juice
If the seeds are chewy or annoying, you didn't cook them enough in step 1.
The health of this dish is incredible. It's gluten free, casein free and vegan. The dal is chock-full of fiber, both soluble and insoluble, protein and nutrients. The asafoetida and the garlic aid in digestion, since dal can be a bit rough on the tummy. It's filling, satisfying and super-tasty.
Enjoy.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Aloo Gobi Mattar
So, this is my first night back in Indian cooking. It's been years since I've done anything but American adaptations on curries. I'm trying a fairly simple dish, Aloo Gobi Mattar. I checked Julie Sahni's "Classic Indian Cooking", but it doesn't have this dish. Instead, I read the section on curries, which states it's a method like the one used in her recipe "Green Beans with Coconut and Black Mustard Seeds". I'll try to use this method.
It's basically a simple process. Prepare your mise en place (of course, Indians don't use the French term, but it's the same thing). Deep fry the spices. Fry the aromatics. Fry the veggies. Turn off heat, add fresh aromatics (usually cilantro) and serve.
I found a couple recipes online that repeat this. Eg
http://homecookreceipes.blogspot.com/2009/07/aloo-gobi.html
http://glutenfreebay.blogspot.com/2006/12/aloo-gobi-mattar-potato-cauliflower-and.html
I'm used to having a thicker sauce. I suppose to do that, you simply add some coconut milk. I imagine adding tomato paster with the aromatics would thicken and darken the sauce, too.
Later that night....
So, I cooked the dish. I did the style with no sauce. It came out really well. I made a number of changes.
I used red potatoes instead of russet. That meant less starch in the sauce, thus a less thick sauce. Yes, I know I said no sauce, but the potatoes should leave a thickness. So, I mashed a couple pieces and some peas, thus sort of mimicking the thickness the russets would lend the sauce.
Also, we had additional milk, so my daughter and I made paneer. Paneer is an Indian cheese that's commonly made at home and featured in dishes like Pollack Paneer. Oh, and I didn't have any frozen cauliflower. So, I actually made Aloo Paneer Mattar. Screw cauliflower, anyway.
This is my mise en place
This is the dish in my cast iron skillet
This is the completed dish
It's basically a simple process. Prepare your mise en place (of course, Indians don't use the French term, but it's the same thing). Deep fry the spices. Fry the aromatics. Fry the veggies. Turn off heat, add fresh aromatics (usually cilantro) and serve.
I found a couple recipes online that repeat this. Eg
http://homecookreceipes.blogspot.com/2009/07/aloo-gobi.html
http://glutenfreebay.blogspot.com/2006/12/aloo-gobi-mattar-potato-cauliflower-and.html
I'm used to having a thicker sauce. I suppose to do that, you simply add some coconut milk. I imagine adding tomato paster with the aromatics would thicken and darken the sauce, too.
Later that night....
So, I cooked the dish. I did the style with no sauce. It came out really well. I made a number of changes.
I used red potatoes instead of russet. That meant less starch in the sauce, thus a less thick sauce. Yes, I know I said no sauce, but the potatoes should leave a thickness. So, I mashed a couple pieces and some peas, thus sort of mimicking the thickness the russets would lend the sauce.
Also, we had additional milk, so my daughter and I made paneer. Paneer is an Indian cheese that's commonly made at home and featured in dishes like Pollack Paneer. Oh, and I didn't have any frozen cauliflower. So, I actually made Aloo Paneer Mattar. Screw cauliflower, anyway.
This is the dish in my cast iron skillet
This is the completed dish
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